February

Ten ways to get your vinyl looking great and keep it that way:

1. Wash Regularly. Every time you wash your boat with mild biodegradable boat soap, use a soft brush or wool mitt to soap up your vinyl seats, trim and sun pad. Do not use deck stain removers because they will break down vinyl, making it brittle, porous and faded. GT Industries, a major marine vinyl supplier, suggests mild liquid dish soap like Dove.

2. Dry Often. Drying vinyl after it’s been washed helps prevent mildew. Before covering your boat, wipe down the vinyl and then let it air dry to make sure most of the moisture is gone.

3. Remove Stains. If your vinyl has stubborn stains, try a vinyl cleaner. Vinyl cleaners are specially formulated to remove stains without breaking down the material (unlike harsh deck cleaners) . Meguiar's makes a liquid spray cleaner that will remove most stains with time and patience. If you use a brush, make sure it is not too stiff. To be sure, rub the brush on the back of your hand; if it hurts or makes your skin red, it is too stiff. Use short quick strokes in one direction with medium to light pressure. If at first the stain doesn't fade, apply a little more cleaner and try again. Don't press too hard or get too excited - I know it's fun! Afterwards, be sure to wash the vinyl to remove all residues.

4. Protect Color. When cleaning and protecting different colored vinyl, I like to use separate rags and brushes for each shade. Sometimes the damaged topcoat will wear off with a cleaner, tinting your rag. Keeping the rags separate will ensure that your white vinyl stays white.

5. Fight Mildew Stains. Mildew has always been a problem with older vinyl. Manufacturers attempt to prevent this by putting mildew resistant additives in vinyl. Some vinyl, however, will still mildew. For mildew stains and other "permanent" stains I use Iosso Vinyl to get rid of the stains once and for all. This cleaner must be diluted in water. Use the semi-stiff brush mentioned in Tip #3 and apply this cleaner in the same manner. It may take a moment for the cleaner to sink in and work on the vinyl. Remember to rinse this cleaner off as well.

6. Use the Correct Products. GT Industries supplies vinyl to major boat manufacturers like Formula and Cigarette Racing, and they will void the warrantee on the vinyl if the wrong cleaners and protectants are used. Moral of the story: find out where your vinyl came from and care for it in the manner the manufacturer intended.

 7. Protect the Topcoat. Vinyl has a topcoat that keeps softening agents intact, It is very important that the topcoat is not damaged. Many silicone based vinyl conditioners contain petroleum byproducts that will break down vinyl topcoats. If you think you can light it on fire, shy away from the product.

8. Protect from the Elements. Protecting your vinyl from the elements will extend its life and maximize its performance. As with all polymers (like gel coat epoxy), weak bonds are susceptible to breaking with exposure to UV light. An ideal protectant will protect against UV light and not hasten degradation. For an effective UV screening agent I have found 303 Aerospace Protectant to be among the best. I mentioned this product last month when discussing fiberglass, but I originally used it on vinyl because of its UV screening properties. This protectant is not a miracle one-shot deal; it must be reapplied every four weeks but it will make your vinyl look great and protect it for up to a month. After the month, simply spray on another coat and wipe it off with a soft cotton cloth.

9. Protect from the Cold. Anyone that has gone boating after October above the Mason-Dixon Line knows that vinyl gets cold and hard to clean and protect in the fall and winter months. That is when you need to bring the household hairdryer to the boat. Warming vinyl helps soften it so cleaners can work and protectants can sink in. Work in small areas at a time (1 square foot) and set the hair drier on high heat and low fan. Hold it about 4-6 inches away and warm the area so it is warm to the touch but not burning. Then apply your cleaner or protectant and proceed as usual.

10. Maintenance = Bliss. Wash your vinyl often, but use cleaners only when necessary. Reapply a protectant on a regular basis – every three or four weeks. Think of it as a vinyl mantra: wash, clean, and protect.  It will lead you to the bliss that is sweet vinyl nirvana.

March

Scrub-a-dub-dub

Whenever you take your boat out, chances are you give it a good washing
afterwards. Few people really understand why this après-cruise washing is important, other than to make the boat look clean. There’s more to it than that, though: washing your boat removes a multitude of surface contaminants that can harm the boat's finish by scratching it, staining it, or removing its protective coatings (like wax). How, with what, and how often you wash your boat are important factors to consider. A successful cleaning method will keep your boat shining all season long.

Developing your Method for Successful Boat Washing:

Knowing how to wash your boat will help you accomplish the goal of maintaining
and protecting its finish. Every boat requires a different approach to washing
but there are several basic guidelines that can be used almost universally.  When you wash, move from top to bottom and from bow to stern, and from soft to hard regarding surfaces (example, plastic windshield: soft, paint: soft, nonskid: hard).  Following this method is usually the easiest way to avoid back tracking and having to rewash any part of your boat. Before starting, always walk the length of your boat to make sure nothing will be washed into the water or clog up your drains!  Look for any stains or problem areas. If you wash the nonskid deck last, you can just step off your boat afterwards and be on your way. Be careful when applying deck cleaners; they are very harsh and may burn your bare feet or strip the wax off your boat.

Selecting the Right Tools and Soaps:

Make sure you are using the correct tools and soap for your boat. There are a number of metal (stainless and aluminum) snap-together extension pole cleaning systems. While these poles are a bit on the pricy side, most are built to last.  Swobbit makes a boating kit that is perfect for performance boats of almost any size. It includes the perfect pole (3 – 6 feet long), a soft brush, wool washer, boat hook and amazing ‘Quik-Dry’ water blade for a retail price of $125.00. Swobbit’s well-made tools will outlast any boat, and additional snap-on heads and poles can be purchased if desired. Beware of aluminum: despite its light weight, many aluminum tools badly pit and lock up.

Make sure you choose the right soap for your boat. Liquid dish soap is not the best bet for your prized performance vehicle because the same detergents that wash away grease from pans will also help to wash away any wax protecting your boat.  There are many boat washing solutions that also include waxes. Some pros swear by a particular "wash and wax" while others detest them.  Although the wash and wax products are good for cleaning, never assume that that the wax part is a substitute for a good wax job on your boat.  Whatever product you use, be sure it is biodegradable without abrasives. Here are some boat soaps that are mild on wax but tough on dirt:

Orpine Boat Soap quart bottle Price $10.99- Name says it, PINE. Very concentrated -a little goes a long way!

Sudbury Boat Zoap quart bottle Price $5.99 - I have used this soap for everything, even as laundry detergent.

Woody Wax Boat Soap 34 oz bottle Price$14.00 - Concentrated gel boat soap that can be used for anything on your boat.  It also has great pine scent.

Mothers Spray and Wash 16 oz spray bottle Price$ 4.99- Great for spot cleaning one section of your boat: spray, scrub, rinse and dry!

Technique:

The most demanding boaters use the two bucket method: one bucket for soap solution and one to rinse out the washing brush. It keeps the dirt out of the soap! Remember to dry off your boat as much as possible: a properly washed and dried boat will look amazing. Water blades like the ‘Quik-Dry’ mentioned above and artificial chamois such as the ‘Absorber’ ($10.00) and ‘Aqua-Dry’ ($12.95) are the quickest way.

Closing thoughts:

The most important to remember is to wash your boat often.  When you walk down your boat be sure to check those seldom washed areas like anchor lockers and deck hatches and include them periodically as needed.  Try to wash your boat after every use and have a thorough detailed washing at least every week, even if the boat hasn't gone out.  Those birds and dust/dirt can really ruin a boat’s finish.  If you trailer your boat, be sure to wash it after traveling a distance since road grime and oils from trucks can scratch and ruin your boat’s finish like nothing it sees on the water.  Set up your own system that is best for your boat and how you use it.  Remember you are washing your boat to remove dirt that harms your boat's finish over time.  The more effectively you wash, the less you will have to wax. Happy washing! Remember if you are looking for some more ideas or products, visit me at www.cleaniedini.com!

April

Compound Problems

Polishing is an often misunderstood practice. Many believe that polish protects a boat's surface like a wax or sealant. In actuality, polish is a very fine abrasive used to increase the gloss and luster of a surface by removing contaminants on a boat’s paint or gel coat. Compounds are closely related to polish: in many cases both must be used to restore a surface. A compound removes oxidation and levels high points on a painted or gel coat
surface.  To accomplish this, the abrasives in a compound must be harsher than those in a polish. To avoid damage to your surface when using a compound, remember a few simple steps: assess the surface condition, use the correct tools and products, and practice proper polishing technique. This month we will be dealing with assessing the condition of your vessel and selecting the products to get the job done.

Understanding why and how the finish begins to deteriorate is half the battle
in keeping your boat in good condition. Fiberglass is covered with gel coat that
can be painted or left as a hard protective glossy finish.  Gel coat is a
hardened resin with pigment.  Resin is a kind of polymer, and polymers are
generally not resistant to UV rays. Eventually, the resin begins to break down,
leaving the pigment "chalking" and reducing your boat's shine.

If your boat’s gel coat is dull or deteriorating, it is important to determine to the degree of degradation. Your boat’s gel coat may be in new, fair, or poor condition.  A new boat does not need intensive restoration. A boat in fair condition has a slightly cloudy surface. A boat in poor condition has oxidization or "chalk" that rubs off to the touch. There is a product for restoring and maintaining each degree that your boat may be experiencing.

Products to get the job done:

Your local marine store carries a number of products to remove oxidation from your boat. Both compound and polish have an abrasive which is used in a liquid or paste to remove material from your boat, like sanding wood. Improperly using these abrasive products can easily ruin your vessel. Low price, low quality abrasives have a large deviation in the media size and type. These abrasives increase your chances of leaving your surface with swirl marks due to larger or harder pieces of abrasive that will scratch the surface. High quality abrasives should always be used. A company with the most stringent standards for polish and compounds is Presta Products, which offers a product for each degree of oxidation. 

New Condition: Very fine polish

On your new baby you don't want to take any chances with swirl marks, so only the finest polish will do. Presta's Swirl Remover (Quart, $23.59) is used on automobiles with clear coat finishes to remove swirls in paint. It is a very mild polish with a great scent. And since gel coat is much harder than clear coat, this polish is safe to use on your new gel coat or to freshen up your Imron paint. It can be used by hand or with the tools mentioned next month!

Fair Condition: Polish or light compound

So your boat is starting to show its age a bit. Even with constant waxing, fun times in the sun have left the surface cloudy. It needs some freshening up with a polish or light compound. Presta's 1500 Polish (Quart $23.59) can remove 1500 grit sandpaper scratches from car finishes. It can be applied by hand or by machine and has a very low risk of scratching your gel coat. For Imron paint it acts as a great scratch remover, and when followed up by the Swirl Remover, it will restore depth and shine to a slightly damaged Imron surface. For jobs that require a little more power, Ultra Cutting Crème Light (Quart. $15.79) has the power of a compound with the safety of a polish. It will easily remove stains and light oxidation. It is most effective when used with the proper tools and pads, discussed in next month's article.

Poor Condition: Compound

If surface chalking makes your boat look like it has a bad case of dandruff, the solution is a compound, like Ultra Cutting Crème (30 oz. $15.89).  Always be careful using compounds, because they can remove the finish very quickly. You can feel the abrasive in the compound between your fingers, but it is held to the highest standards for abrasive size and quality. It will remove oxidation evenly and quickly leaving a fresh surface to start out on. Now that you have used the compound you may notice that the finish has lost its luster. To restore the luster I like to use the Ultra Cutting Crème Light (32 oz. $15.79). This product works best on a high speed polisher (don't be afraid) with the correct Presta polishing pad.

Next month these products will be matched up with the proper polishing tools to make sure the job gets done right. Keep in mind that whenever you attempt to remove any stain or oxidation, an abrasive or harsh chemical must be used in the process, leaving the potential to damage your boat permanently. Always read all directions and opt for a less harsh polish before trying the harshest compound.

It is easier and less expensive if you work up to a compound rather than burn out your gel coat and need to have it professionally repaired. For detailed instructions and product information visit www.cleaniedini.com and email in any questions.

Presta can be purchased directly from Presta Products at http://www.prestaproducts.com or 1-800-860-4488.

May

Polishing Part Deux

In my last article, I discussed what compounds and polishes are and why one would want to use them. This article discusses how to polish. Generally there are two methods of polishing, by hand and by machine. For polishing machines can be further categorized rotary and the random orbital. Each machine has its benefits and draw backs, because each type of tool has its benefits and draw backs. It is important to keep in mind that while applying polish or compound, material is being removed from the surface of your boat, whether it be paint or gel coat. You will learn not to fear the polisher and how to use it to keep your boat looking great.

           For you brave people who approach polishing by hand the process can be a long and labor-intensive. When you polish by hand, you should use a 100% cotton polishing cloth with some polish or compound and rub it onto a section of your boat.  Apply the polish in small sections of about a square foot. This pattern of application works the polish into one focused area at a time. By doing small areas and overlapping, about 4 inches, the results will be consistent and of a higher quality as compared to attempting to polish one large area. There are differing views regarding how to polish by hand. The traditional approach is to use a circular motion.  This approach has been the benchmark of the hand-polishing discipline. However, this motion puts circular micro scratches in the surface; polishing is like sanding on a smaller scale.  The new, “radical” movement in the hand polish prose is to polish in brisk short strokes in one direction and, if needed, polish with the same motion perpendicular to the first strokes. This method is like sanding a piece of wood, with the grain. Why does this matter? Any scratch can be seen more readily when looking across the scratch. If you make your micro scratches in a circle you have 360 degrees of a scratch, if it is a straight line scratch it is only really seen at two points on a 360 degree circle. I have tried to retrain my polish modus operandi to the brisk strokes. However you decide to polish, remember that less harsh is better than too harsh and a little extra elbow grease will pay off in the end. Rub till the polish dries up and pulls away from the surface then move on to the next section. Before you wax, wash off the area you polished to avoided rubbing in the abrasive with the wax.

            Polishing with a machine can be the worst thing that ever happened to your boat if it is not done correctly. With the wrong technique, a polisher can become a grinder. Let us look at properly using rotary and random orbital power polishers.  A rotary polisher moves the pad in a circular motion at a high speed. This pattern of motion serves two functions: it rubs the product onto the surface and it increases the surface temperature to the point where it removes old wax and, on painted surfaces, softens the paint to remove product more easily. It is important to hold a rotary polisher at a slight angle, about 5 degrees, so that the working area is only the forward portion of the pad—too great an angle will result in using the extreme forward edge of the pad. With a smaller contact area, the temperature and force will increase, causing imminent disaster (read: burning gel coat and burning through paint).  Therefore, it is important to hold the polisher at a slight angle at all times. Slower speed is better than higher speed. Start out slowly to rub the polish or compound into the surface, then increase speed and reduce pressure as the polish/compound begins to dry. This variation will create a polishing effect and bring the surface to a high gloss. Never, for any reason, bring the polisher to full speed or a speed you don’t feel comfortable with. Polishing pads are just as important as the compound you use. Presta products offers a color coded polish pad system. They have wool blend pads for more abrasive polishing or foam pads for less abrasive. Presta’s color coding makes polishing easy and fun. For more information contact Presta directly at http://www.prestaproducts.com/ or simply go to www.cleaniedini.com and ask away.

            A random orbital polisher is the harmless version of a rotary polisher. Results are slow to achieve but the risk to the surface is next to nothing. A random orbital polisher works by employing two motions, a slow rotary motion and a vibration. This polisher is not as harmful to the surface because the tool does not create heat on the surface and tends not to put visible scratches on a surface. The results come slowly but they do come and because the risks are low, it is the safest polisher for those who are not experienced with machine polishing or anyone with questionable polishing skills. Griot’s Garage and Porter Cable offer one of the best combinations I have come across for a random orbital polisher. The pads and polisher are of the highest quality. The tool is built for a lifetime. There are many other polishers on the market but some last only a few hours and have very little power.

A note about polishing machines and swirl marks; I bet you are wondering why circular scratches do not appear with proper machine polishing.  The speed associated with machine polishing tends to lift the polish or compound away from the surface and fling it away leaving a glossy finish. This effect does not occur with hand polishing resulting in the swirl marks.

As with many things, you get what you pay for when you buy any type of polisher. A higher initial investment will bring years of happy polishing. There is nothing like using the right tools and doing a fantastic job. With some care, some time, the right products and the right tools your boat will look great.

June

Precious Metal

Chances are your boat has some sort of metal on it, and that metal is likely stainless steel, aluminum, or chrome—or any combination of the three.  Bright, shiny metal against the gleaming fiberglass of your well-polished boat looks even better than a fresh set of braces on perfect white teeth.  Give your boat a big smile and take care of that metal!

Stainless:

Stainless steel on your boat is most likely 316 stainless, to which molybdenum has been added to resist corrosion from chlorides. Marine 316 stainless is different from the 304 stainless used for most home fixtures (faucets sinks etc.). To give it both luster and corrosion protection, stainless steel has at least 11% chrome, so when exposed to the atmosphere stainless steel oxidizes a thin layer of chrome oxide. This layer is only atoms thick but keeps oxygen from coming in contact with the underlying alloy of steel. Stainless steel gets dirty and will need cleaning. 

Care:

Stainless can sometimes be difficult to care for because it tends to look blotchy after polishing due to the fact that the black surface oxidation on the cloth is not fully removed from the surface. Skai Metal Polish ($48.50) is simply the best around, used to polish everything from stainless airplane parts to all aluminum 737’s. Now you, too, can use this same polish on your stainless. It can be applied either by hand or with an electric polisher with wool pad. After polishing, ordinary baking flour can be used to pick up that annoying black residue, just sprinkle it on and wipe it off. After this to get an even finer finish Jet Stream Aviation Products (supplier of Skai) makes Mirror Image ($18) a gauze wadding that will bring your stainless to levels you can only imagine. To minimize damage to stainless wash it when you wash your boat and avoid using chloride cleaners (like bleach) and abrasive cleaners (like scouring powders).

Aluminum:

Aluminum comes in either of two forms: anodized or raw. Raw aluminum acts very much like a stainless steel—when you try to polish it, your polish cloth will pick up the oxidation on the cloth from the aluminum. By removing the oxidation you begin to produce a luster for the finish. Raw aluminum usually looks dull because it is very difficult to keep polished. Most aluminum used on boats is anodized, which produces a hard protective oxide finish on the metal. Like chrome, the piece is made into the anode in an electrolytic cell as the cathode is place in the electrolyte. When power is passed through the cell ions oxidize the aluminum. This oxidation protects the metal and gives it the finish we all know and love.

Care:

Raw aluminum can be treated with products like Mother’s Mag and Aluminum Polish ($5) or Meguiar’s All Metal Polish ($7). These products will gently remove the oxidation and provide a great shine. All that you need is a 100% cotton rag, polish and some elbow grease. If you have anodized aluminum, like most boaters do, you will have to do two things at the same time: not damage the anodized finish, and protect the finish from pitting. When pitting occurs it will permanently damage the aluminum so it must be avoided at all costs. Woody Wax has a kit ($34) that comes with brass steel wool, Woody Wax, foam brush, and metal sealer. When used all together the kit can help to remove salt deposits that can cause pitting and take care of anodized metal. This process is simple, just wash and dry metal, spray on Woody Wax, grab an ice cold beverage of your choice, catch some rays, rub in Woody Wax with supplied brass steel wool, catch some more rays with aforementioned frosty beverage and wipe off. The Woody Wax will do its work cleaning and protecting, leaving your aluminum almost greasy but amazingly shiny and easy to clean in the long run. It is a good tip to run your hands along all your aluminum as much as you like, this not only shows your boat that you love it but it also will let you know where salt has deposited and which areas you need to treat most.

Chrome:

Chroming is an electrolytic process where the piece is made into the cathode by making it the negative end of an electrical connection. Plating occurs in a solution or bath of either nickel or chrome. The solution is then made the positive end of the electrical connection or anode by placing a conductor with the proper electrical connection to the power source. The electrical connection is turned on and the piece then attracts the plating. The first plating in the chroming process is nickel, which gives chrome plating its fine finish and brightness. That is followed by a plating of chromium in the same manner taking care that the chromium plates evenly on the entire piece.

Care:

Chrome is very easy to care for because it is very hard and won’t easily scratch. If chrome is not cared for it has the tendency to pit, and if left unattended pitting will ruin the piece so it cannot be re-chromed. Small pits are very easily treated with a steel wool or pad like SOS or Brillo. Be careful that you do not allow the steel wool to break off onto the deck because it will rust. Another great chrome polish is Collinite’s No. 850 Metal Wax ($8.50) because it has an abrasive that will clean off the surface of the chrome and remove small pits. If your chrome is in good shape, Mother’s Chrome Polish ($4) will clean brighten and protect your chrome.

Contact Information:

Mothers Polish, www.mothers.com, Mothers Polishes Waxes Cleaners, 5456 Industrial Drive, Huntington Beach, CA  92649, (714) 891-3364, (800) 221-8257

Woody Wax, www.woody-wax.com, 228 Hibiscus Street,Jupiter FL 33458, 516-775-6638

Jet Stream Aviation Products, www.jetstreamproducts.com, Jet Steam Aviation Products Inc, 7515 Lemmon Avenue, Building "J", Love Field, Dallas Texas 75209, 1-800-727-JETS

Collinite Corporation, www.collinite.com, 1520 Lincoln Avenue, Utica, New York, 13502, 315-732-2282

Meguiar’s, www.meguiars.com, 17991 Mitchell South, Irvine, CA 92614, USA, 1-800-347-5700

July

Sea Clearly

It is very important to see everything that is happening around you while operating a marine vehicle, whether it is a buoy, rapidly approaching lobster pot, or topless supermodel—boats are operated using the sense of sight. Aiding or impeding this sight is the plastic on your boat you need to see though. On your boat you have a plastic windshield, port holes, and enclosures. Today, “plastics” is a general term that is applied to some very high tech materials. I will use it to generalize materials you see through on your boat that are not made of glass. Many types of plastics on the market are used to help you see clearly. They are broken up into types with different attributes and different reactions to environmental stresses (UV degradation, projectile impact, scratch resistance etc., etc.). Here you will get an overview of the characteristics of the materials used today and some helpful tips on keeping them as clear as possible. It is important to note that the only way to know for sure what material is on your boat is to contact the manufacturer. In some cases it is impossible to tell and if in fact you have a material that is coated (used to enhance weaker characteristics like scratch resistance) it requires special care as not to remove the coating and consequently ruin the product. So sit back, grab a cold one and see how to see on the sea.

Vinyl:

• PVC material with plasticizers to make it flexible
• Known as the name brand Isinglass®
• Used for enclosures; can be rolled or in sheet form
• Prone to yellowing, hazing, and scratching
• Used as soft, flexible, see-through enclosure material
• Expands and contracts with heating and cooling
• Strataglass® is a cutting edge coated vinyl that has all the good properties of vinyl with few of the bad ones. Strataglass® requires special care.
• Strataglass® is very clear

Polycarbonate:

• Very shatter resistant
• Used for NASCAR windshields
• When viewed from different angles rainbow effect will be seen, especially with polarized sunglasses
• Tendency to deform and not shatter
• Highest ductility, lower tensile strength
• Softer than acrylics and tend to scratch more
• Used for deck or hatch windows or anywhere impact may occur
• Polycarbonate brand names you may see: Lexan®, Cyrolon®, HYZOD®, Crystal-Flex®, Tuffak® and Aqua-Lite®

Acrylic:

• Clearer than glass
• Yellows least of all materials
• Highly scratch-resistant
• Tendency to shatter before it deforms
• Can be modified to overcome brittleness (Acrylite® Plus made by CYRO®)
• Resistant to breakdown due to UV exposure (3% drop in light transmission over 10 years)
• Resistant to many chemicals and thinners
• Highest tensile strength, least ductility
• Used for enclosures or any application where visibility is the most important attribute
• Acrylic and Modified Acrylic Brand names you may see: Acrylite® Plexiglas®, Lucite®, Plaskolite®, Implex®, DuraPlex ®

Care and maintenance:

Before you can care for your plastic products, you must first positively confirm its identity. The most accurate way of accomplishing this is to call up the manufacturer of your boat or enclosure and ask them what products they used. Be sure to make them specify if the product used has any type of coating to enhance scratch resistance, like Strataglass® or HYZOD® SD, HYZOD®AR, Lucite® SAR

If coated:

The best care would be to wash with water and if needed a mild soap such as Boat Zoap can be used. Normal care includes bi-monthly waxing of the exterior with Collinite Fiberglass Boat Wax #925. If restoration is required to clear up cloudiness due to mineral buildups, it is necessary to use a very mild abrasive like 3M Finesse-it or Presta Swirl Remover. 

If not coated:

When washing:

Use a soft wool-type wash pad with mild boat soap. Rinse immediately and dry. In drying I prefer using a squeegee or absorber taking care not to scratch. Swobbit System was discussed in the March issue on washing and is a great kit that includes some fine tools that will not damage your plastics. Do not use Windex or any cleaner with ammonia or alcohol which will begin to break down most products.

Scratch and haze removal:

There are a number of plastic scratch removal products on the market specially made to remove scratches from uncoated plastics. Meguiar’s Scratch X has a micro-abrasive that will remove scratches and lessen the appearance of deeper scratches. Apply it like any other polish with short brisk strokes in one direction using your finest cotton polishing cloth. To buff off simply take your finest cotton buffing cloth and buff off in a circular motion with light strokes. I was amazed at how well it cleared up Isinglass cloudiness and haze as it removed scratches. For lighter duty, Mothers plastic polish and Griot’s Garage plastic polish are both up to the task. Aurora Clear View is an amazing two-part product that can clear up cloudy Isinglass, just see the picture for yourself.

Cleaner and polish:

Whether your boat has Isinglass® or Plexiglas®, Lexan® or Acrylite®, the best spray cleaner that I have come across is 210 Cleaner and Polish. This product can bring new shine to your windshield or clean and shine Isinglass-type windows with a simple wipe-on/wipe-off application.

Deep Scratch Restoration:

Plastics can get deep scratches and still recover. This process uses the same abrasives used in fiberglass polishing but should be left to a professional.

In closing:

There are countless different types of plastics used on boats for countless different jobs. Luckily, the care is quite similar for the majority of the plastics on the market. One last thing to remember is not to touch plastics after using sunscreen. In addition to making everything greasy, it also breaks down many types of plastics and has irreparable damage. Hopefully, it is easy to see the differences between the types of plastics. To see more detailed information on this article visit www.cleaniedini.com for more links than you could ever imagine regarding plastics!!! Now you can be the dock guru! See!

Special thanks to: EZ2CY for providing accurate information and expelling the rumor monster.

Contact Information:

Armada Coatings LLC (210 Polish), P.O. Box 879, Havre de Grace, MD, 21078, (800)-336-9320, http://armadacoatings.com/HomePage.html

Aurora Marine, 7015 Ordan Drive, Suite 11, Mississauga ON L5T 1Y2, CANADA,1-866-214-3444, http://www.auroramarine.com

AtoGlas (Plexiglas), (800) 523-7500, http://www.atofinachemicals.com/atoglas/

CYRO Industries (Acrylite), 800-631-5384, http://www.cyro.com

Canvas Designers, 2815 Broadway,Riviera Beach, FL, 33404, (561) 848-2111, http://www.canvasdesigners.com/

EZ2CY (enclosure and information), (800) 448-4317, http://www.ez2cy.com

General Electric Structured Products (Lexan), (800) PLASTIC, http://www.gelexan.com/gelexan/

Meguiars, 17991 Mitchell South, Irvine, CA 92614, (800)347-5700, http://www.meguiars.com

Mothers Polishes Waxes Cleaners, 5456 Industrial Drive, Huntington Beach, CA, 92649, http://www.mothers.com

Strataglass, 2968 Ravenswood Rd. #107 Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33312, (800) 581-5801, http://www.strataglass.com/contact.html

August

Nonskid

Purpose:       To keep the individual firmly affixed to the deck during periods of acceleration, impact, pitch and or roll.

Description:  A textured surface arranged in a random or repeating pattern on deck where increased traction is required.

Problem:      During normal wear and tear decks with their nonskid finish are exposed to factors that lead to rapid oxidation. These problems include but are not limited to: constant foot traffic, harsh chemical cleaners to remove stains, and neglect due to misinformation regarding care. 

Tools and Materials:

                   Stiff Deck Brush, Medium Deck Brush, Medium hand bush, Stiff hand brush, Aurora Sure Step Deck Polish, Woody Wax, Meguiar's Deck and Hull Cleaner, Aurora Boat Clean, Aurora Boat Scrub, Soft Scrub with Bleach.

 Solution:      Proper regular care for your nonskid decking to decrease staining.

We all know that waxing is great for many parts of so many things; cars, boats, refrigerators, tubs, floors, body parts... Few think to wax their nonskid. Waxing nonskid seems counterintuitive and dangerous. However, nonskid can oxidize just like your gel coat. When it oxidizes the surface breaks down freeing the pigment used to color the gel coat.

Cleaning and removing stains

If the cockpit of your boat has exposed nonskid you know how annoying keeping it clean can be. Removing these stains is a daunting task. I spent some time with all different types of nonskid using some old and new products. Mainly these can be broken up into mild soaps, chemical cleaners, and abrasive cleaners.

Mild Soaps

·         Won't burn your feet

·         Won't strip wax protection

·         Used for normal every day washing

·         Rinse filth off nonskid and wash your whole boat then wash the nonskid last to keep filth far from smooth fiberglass, paint and plastics.

·         Use soft to medium deck brush

Some great examples of mild soaps are basic boat soaps like Aurora Boat Scrub, Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wash, or Bio-Kleen Super Suds. These soaps are high sudsing and should be used on your entire boat and your nonskid for normal cleaning to remove light filth. Follow mixing instructions and wash your boat doing the decks last using a medium to soft brush. This will maintain the protective coating provided by your deck protectant.

Chemical Cleaners

·         Removes scuffs and stains Mild Soaps can't

·         Lifts up imbedded dirt

·         May strip wax protection depending on product

·         Removes oxidation, black streaks, scuffs and most stains, (bird droppings, food stains, and yellowing)

·         Can damage other materials on your boat (aluminum, plastics, vinyl, paints)

·         May burn your sensitive feet

Chemical Cleaners are a wonderful cleaning agent that are usually sprayed onto rinsed off wet nonskid surfaces, scrubbed in, allowed to sit for about a minute scrubbed again and rinsed off. Acids like Oxalic Acid, and Phosphoric Acid are used to clean the deck, hence the tingle on your feet (don't inhale spray, it burns, trust me). These acids tend to be harsh on most materials and should be limited to nonskid cleaning. Meguiar's Nonskid Deck and Hull Cleaner, Bio-Kleen Oxidation Remover and Aurora Boat Clean are the three products I recently tested on multiple nonskid surfaces each removing blood, bird and food stains that a mild soap wouldn't touch. These products work best with a medium to heavy deck brush using the procedure outlined above. Remember to limit their use to nonskid and fiberglass surfaces to avoid damage of other materials.

Abrasive cleaners

·         Removes almost anything

·         Requires rigorous scrubbing

·         May contain bleach which is great to remove stains but will also harm vinyl's and plastics

·         Will scratch any surface it is applied to

·         Will remove wax

However much the chemical cleaners removed from the decks it still was not quite sufficient to be considered “Cleanie” so the old faithful die hard cleaners were called in

 abrasive cleaners like Comet, Ajax, and my personal favorite, Soft Scrub. The last offensive measure taken in deck cleaning. Soft Scrub has bleach that whitens the nonskid as well as an abrasive that will exfoliate your deck, removing stains oxidation and surface contaminants. However nice the deck looks, remember it is now unprotected and will quickly oxidize and readily accept dirt and stains.

Protectants

This is the section you have all been waiting for. To learn how to wax your nonskid without changing non-skid to skid, or slip, or fall. I remember the first vinyl sun pad I tried to protect, I also remember the first person I ever saw slip off a sun pad, into the water. So it is very important to keep your wits about you while protecting your newly cleaned surface.

                   Woody wax has been the wax I have used for years to wax nonskid. Woody wax is good for just about anything that needs a protective wax on it. For nonskid application is simple;

·         Wash deck to “Cleanie” standards (spotless)

·         Spray Woody Wax on sparingly and use deck mop to spread over entire nonskid surface

·         Allow to dry

·         Buff off with cotton terrycloth towel for amazing shine

Woody wax tends to be very slippery when wet during application process so be careful and don't say you weren't warned. Also don't expect to retain 100% traction after waxing because you are putting a protective coating between your foot and the deck abrasive, again don't say you weren't warned.

Aurora Marine has a deck wax called Sure Step that is the second entry into the nonskid wax market. It claims to protect and produce a brilliant shine, true claim from my work with it, and also provide traction dependent on the weight applied to it. AKA, big guys get more traction than little guys like me… But, I am 155 pounds and the deck wasn't slippery to me. Application is simple, brush on to clean dry deck with medium bristled deck brush. Allow to dry and buff off to high luster, reapply in 24 hours.

                   Both waxes do a great job and maintain the gripping properties expected of a nonskid. With proper cleaning, wax application and maintenance you should see a reduction in the number of stains on your deck. Anything that would stain will simply wash off with a mild soap.  

Aurora Marine, 7015 Ordan Drive, Suite 11, Mississauga ON L5T 1Y2, CANADA, 1-866-214-3444, http://www.auroramarine.com/

Bio-Kleen, 508 Harrison Street, Kalamazoo, MI 49007, (800) 240-5536, http://www.biokleen.com

Meguiar's, 17991 Mitchell South, Irvine, CA 92614, (800)347-5700, http://www.meguiars.com

Woody Wax, 228 Hibiscus Street, Jupiter FL 33458, (800) 619-4363, http://www.woody-wax.com/

September

Graphic Details

If you read your Powerboat Mag, like all good boaters should, you remember the article on The Art Of Design (TAOD) and boat graphics. I called Dean Loucks, the man the myth the legend in the boat graphics world, and we talked for a bit on the work he does with boat graphics and how to keep those graphics in top shape. There are several types of graphics, and the care for each differs according to its composition. The main graphics types are inlaid fiberglass, vinyl and paints.

Inlaid fiberglass graphics are designs produced when the fiberglass is made in the mold. Essentially, the inlaying process is colored fiberglass sprayed when the boat is being made. This process is widely used, examples can be seen on most Baja craft. There are many benefits to this method. First, gelcoat is quite durable and hard and can be maintained in the traditional polishing manner with little concern posed by harsh boat cleaning chemicals. The other appealing attribute of inlaid gelcoat is that it can be left in the water indefinitely. Painted surfaces (except some AwlgripTM paints) are not designed for prolonged exposure to water. Paint can lift off surfaces if left in the water for multiple weeks. This is not a factor for most powerboat owners but is something to keep in mind if you plan to use your boat in this way. The final benefit to inlaid fiberglass is that when the pattern is sprayed into the mold it is sprayed-in totally level and results in a perfectly smooth finish with little follow-up work required. The few drawbacks to inlaid fiberglass include simplistic graphics and paint—no fabulous features like pearl tones and all graphics must be made before the boat is made in the factory that makes the rest of the boat.

Care for inlaid fiberglass is much the same as any other smooth fiberglass. It is important to acquire a quality carnauba or polymer protectant as well as occasionally to use a light abrasive to keep the surface clean and free of contaminants. Please reference your prior issues of Powerboat for information on how to care for smooth gelcoat.

Vinyl graphics can be likened to stickers; they adhere to the boat’s surface.  Vinyl graphics are the least expensive type of graphics because they simply need to be stuck on and can be easily done by the boat owner. They are great for boats that have graphics that need to be removed (like race boats) and are a cost-effective entry into the graphics industry. Because the vinyl simply sits on top of the gelcoat or painted surface, the graphics can be scratched off easily, making vinyl somewhat undesirable for boats that experience a good amount of wear and tear. In addition, vinyl graphics are limited because sharp corners tend to curl up. Vinyl graphics have their place in the industry for race boats and for those who want easy and simple designs.

Care for vinyl is quite simple. Because vinyl sits on top of the boat’s coating it tends to collect filth, wax or anything else, like suntan lotion. Vinyl needs to be cleaned with a few highly specialized tools, first and foremost the cut-off brush. Go to the local paint store and ask for their finest boar’s hair brush, or just any brush, and cut the bristles to about 1 inch. Now brush the edges of your graphics to remove the built-up wax, dirt and grime that have been giving you nightmares in your otherwise Cleanie dreams. The next tool is your arsenal requires even more work. Go to the ice-cream man and get a Popsicle. Eat the Popsicle and take the Popsicle stick with your quality microfiber cloth and gently use the Popsicle stick to clean the vinyl edge. Cleanie Tip: Purchase some quick cleaning spray (see definition below) and use in conjunction with above method. For areas where there is no ice-cream man a fingernail can be used to replace the Popsicle stick.

Paint is the cutting edge technology in boat graphics. Almost anything can be done with it creating some of the most amazing looking machines ever to grace the world's waters. After speaking with Dean I learned that some of my ideas on paint were somewhat "old school" and not being a very old individual I realized that many innovations have quickly been developed in the industry. As far as marine applications are concerned, there where two paints used, Awlgrip and Imron paints. They are very hard and very resistant to abrasion and the elements. For those reasons they have been used almost exclusively in the past. Now Dean only uses a basecoat-clearcoat method of painting from BASF. Basecoat or color coat is the pigment color you see when you look at the boat. Graphics are made with this color coat by painting layer after layer until the desired results are achieved. The basecoat has little or no luster and no protective qualities. It is simply for appearance and to give the clearcoat a base to adhere to. Clearcoat is sprayed over the basecoat and provides protection and luster to the basecoat. Clearcoat, for those who may be wondering, is clear. When clear coating is finished the different heights of the color coat are apparent even with the clearcoat on top of them. This is dealt with at TAOD by sanding down and polishing the clearcoat smooth.

Clearcoat Keys:

• Clearcoat should be protected often

• Do not use abrasives on clearcoat because once the clearcoat is gone the paint is ruined

• The Clearcoat system is essentially the same painting system used on your automobile and can be cleaned and treated the same way. Harsh boat cleaners are not necessary. Marine grade oxidation removers are evil. Use a fine wax or polish. Mother’s Reflections is a great alternative to carnauba wax

Clear Care:

Protectant- TAOD sent me their protectant, which was made in conjunction with BioKleen and does a great job on clearcoats. Mother’s has an amazing 3 step cleaning and protectant system for clearcoats that will make you smile!

Quick Cleaning Spray- A spray that is used to lubricate the painted surface making it possible to wipe off light dust. Also can be used while polishing to wet polish making it last longer [make sure this means what you mean it to mean.  I am confused]. Can be used to for various mild cleaning needs. TAOD and Biokleen make a quality spray as well as Griot's Speed Shine that I use daily as a final wipe-down before show time.

Microfiber Cloth:

At first I was not a microfiber believer but now I am. There are basically two types of microfiber, poly imports (polyester microfiber) and USA-made DF Microfiber (Cotton Cellulous microfiber). I now use microfiber with quick cleaning sprays to dust, buff and wash with. Stay tuned for the real deal in microfiber!

No matter what type of graphics you have, with the proper care and know-how you, too, can keep them looking like new. I can not say enough about the cleaning sprays, and when used in conjunction with a quality microfiber cloth on any surface you will be very pleased. Keep in mind the basics about what your graphics are when you care for them and the rest will follow.

Special thanks to Dean Loucks and everyone at TAOD for their help!

The Art Of Design, 104 Rush Ct., Elkhart, IN 46516, (574) 522-8838, http://www.taod.org/

Micro Fiber:

Dominique France Motorsports,1876 Muttontown Rd.

Syosset, NY 11791, (516) 620-5215, http://www.dftowel.com.

Quick Cleaning Spray:

Griot's Garage (Speed Shine), 3500-A 20th Street E.,Tacoma, WA 98424, (800) 345-5789, http://www.griotsgarage.com.

Clearcoat Cleaners Protectants and Scratch Removers:

Hammerhead Boatworks, Inc (Wax Frenzy)., 1340-1272 N. Great Neck Road, Suite 365, Virginia Beach, VA, 23454, (866) 373-6992 http://hammerheadboatworks.com

Mothers Polishes Waxes Cleaners (3 Step System), 5456 Industrial Drive, Huntington Beach, CA, 92649, http://www.mothers.com

October

Engine Compartment

I can remember the sound of the hydraulic arm lifting open the sun pad. The air was fresh and the boat was ready to go. The three rather attractive girls in white bikinis were extremely impressed by the automatic machinery. Then they see it. Your big-block bored, stoked, ported and polished baby. The girls gasp as they look back at you. One then says "eww, engines are always so...dirty"

There are many things you need to worry about when cleaning your engine. First of all, paint and metal never look perfect and distributors, computers, alternators, carburetors, hydraulic pumps, and associated fun stuff--so you've been told- CAN'T GET WET. But you are on a boat. Clearly, Mercury must have designed everything so that it can get wet. But that logic has left many a hapless boater dead in the water-literally. In order to keep your machine running in tip-top shape, read on and learn the ways of the bilge weasel.

Cover That Beast:

Water and engines don't mix well. Taking steps to ensure that we do not introduce H2O into the Otto Cycle is a good thing. I've soaked plenty of engines by making the mistake of using sloppy plastic grocery bags held water tight with blue painters tape over computers and carburetors. Instead I offer this word of advice, go to your local grocery store and buy a few boxes of Saran Quick Covers. These glorified shower caps can be placed over all those parts of your mill that would rather not get rained upon. When you have properly covered your engine you can proceed to Soap It Up.

Soap It Up: 

There are numerous degreasers on the market, some harsh and some mild depending on your cleaning needs. Meguiar's set me up with Super Degreaser that must be diluted 4:1 with water, this way if you need more power you simply don't dilute as much and vice versa. Access to warm water makes this process much easier because warm water will gently soften grease any grime.

• Wet the engine and spray on the choice degreaser and allow to sit while you consume one ice cold beverage
• After your hard-earned rest you can gently agitate the areas on the engine with the perfect brush. Meguiar's carries a number of brushes that fit into all areas of the engine. I worked with their Grip Tech Brushes(G-311) and Detailing Brushes (G-300); these brushes seem a worthy investment regardless of their country of production. Rinse parts of the engine to gauge your progress.
• This process may take a bit of time. While you are at it, soap up your entire engine compartment with a normal boat soap so as not to harm the fiberglass or painted finish. Once you have scrubbed it all, it's time to Hose Her Down.

Hose Her Down:

When the grime is gone it is time to wash it all away. Grab your trusty garden hose and using a mist or low pressure soaking stream, rinse off the engine allowing the water to drain into the bilge with the bilge pump off. It is illegal to pump oily water that exceeds 15PPM of oil overboard (according to CFR title 33 part 151.09 to 151.29 in the distance set forth in MARPOL 73/78), so make sure you have arranged proper shore disposal of your oily bilge water before you undertake this endeavor. After the engine compartment has been rinsed of all signs of soap it is time to Dry and Detail.

Dry and Detail:

There are a good number of places that water can accumulate, especially in the intake manifold. It is important to dry these places out. If you have been using an Absorber-type chamois and have one that is pretty old and gross it would make a perfect engine compartment chamois. Take a bucket and as you dry make sure to wring the Absorber into the bucket and dispose of that water properly. Whether it is lube oil or fuel, on the surface or emulsified, it is still considered oil and still illegal to dump into our water ways. Once your engine compartment is dry, proceed to Wax It Up.

Wax It Up:

The main problem with Carnauba wax is that it is not the most durable substance when heated. Engine compartment temperatures usually shouldn't surpass 200 degrees F but the constant heating tends to make waxing your engine pretty pointless from an extended protection standpoint. Mercury Racing engine use a PPG Polyurathane paint that is electrostatically applied. This paint is similar to an Imron paint and is very hard and very durable and almost always looks good. But using any marine wax on this type of paint, especially the Mercury Racing Blue, brings a deep luster to the paint. I used Meguiar's Marine Flagship on just about everything and made it look great. For those huge stainless headers Meguiar's All Metal Polish is mild enough to take off surface grime and return a lustrous shine even after the hardest run. Plastics and rubber can be cared for by one of two products.

For the natural look, Meguiar's Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner is best applied liberally to a rag and wiped over anything rubber or plastic. If you like your plastics to look like they are slathered in Vaseline, Meguiar's new NXT Generation Protectant applied by foam brush will make you look as slick as Ricky Marin at a Bar Mitzvah

Happy Ending:

For those who must go above and beyond, Meguiar's has a detail swab set for the smallest places. They are a little flimsy but can pick up dirt and dress those hard to reach crevices. For something more substantial, a ruler with a microfiber cloth can fit places fat fingers can't. If there is one thing that will put a smile on your face more than a Cleanie engine compartment it is knowing that with one phone call Meguiar's can hook you up with everything you need to get your engine compartment from yucky to just ducky. So next time you open the engine compartment for the ladies they will say "wow, that is so big and clean and shiny" and you can say "Cleanie Dini showed me the way."

Special thanks to Ocean Performance in Old Saybrook Connecticut for allowing me to dress their engine in shower caps!

For More information:

Meguiars, 17991 Mitchell South, Irvine, CA 92614, (800)347-5700, http://www.meguiars.com

November/December

Hammer Head

You may have noticed all the recent buzz and bustle over Hammerhead Boatworks and their new line of cleaning products. On the other hand, you may not be involved in cleaning products as much as I am, and you may be worrying about ordinary things like gas prices and football, but the spin is this: boat cleaning may very well never be the same. With their macho shark mascot leading the way, Hammerhead implies that by donning a cleaning applicator one can really find oneself in a “Cleaning Frenzy.”  Unlike an aggressive shark, Cleanie Dini lives a docile life extracting great joy from waxing boats, more like a friendly waxing goldfish. This month we slow the Waxing Frenzy down a bit and look at Hammerhead’s waxes and line of Frenzy Products.

Frenzy (n.):

1. Violent mental agitation or wild excitement. 2. Temporary madness. 3. A mania; craze.

Super Degreaser Cleaner:

When you are ready for a degreaser delirium your friends at Hammerhead have you covered. Use this all purpose cleaner in full strength with a stiff deck brush to remove oxidation from nonskid and just about anything else that may be getting you agitated. In addition, you can dilute this solution and use it for any cleaning needs on the boat including vinyl, carpets and all metals. The cleaner is 100% biodegradable and doesn’t use caustic cleaners that will burn your delicate feet.

Orange Concentrate:

Much like the Super Degreaser Cleaner, the Orange Cleaner contains many of the same citrus extracts that can power through almost all kinds of oils. The difference I have found between the two products is that the Orange Concentrate is more user-friendly for interiors and cockpit cleaning due to its appealing citrus scent (highly concentrated).

Wash and wax:

I think that the proper name for this product should be “Possessed Prep Wash.” This wash prepares your boat’s surface for waxing and acts as a booster for any wax that is still on your boat. Because they know the importance of washing your boat and they know how you wax your boat, most companies arrive at the logical conclusion of making the ubiquitous “wash-and-wax.”  However, most wash-and-waxes have never really been good at washing or waxing. I have used this wash and found it to perform as well or better than most washing solutions as far as cleaning goes; however, there is an ionic protectant that works with the charge of the finish of the surface to align itself and act as a booster to any protectant that is on it (just remember high school chemistry and charge attraction, or just high school dances… attraction). It is also important to note the wash will last a long time with a 16oz. bottle making up to 40 gallons of wash.

Vinyl Protectant

Vicious Vinyl Protectant is a very nice product that doesn’t make your vinyl greasy but leaves a clean surface and actually tends to soften vinyl. It works by trapping in the plasticizers that leave the vinyl as it ages. The more plasticizers in the vinyl, the softer it is and less apt it is to crack and discolor. Simply spread the protectant on and allow it to soak into the vinyl; if there is any excess simply wipe it off.  Usually I finish by buffing the vinyl to a nice clean shine. A number of applications may be necessary depending on the condition of the vinyl. This product can be used for all plastics, leathers and rubbers.

Shark Tower:

I believe that the majority of homework in making this product line has gone into the Shark Tower! and Waxing Frenzy! waxes. They are easy to use and they produce great results. Both Shark Tower! and Waxing Frenzy! have the same Carnauba-silicone-polymer bases but with different cleaners. Shark Tower is the more aggressive cleaner and has an abrasive as well as what Hammerhead calls an “engulfing agent.”  Those two cleaners help to break down surface contaminants and pull them away from the surface onto your polishing cloth, helping you to keep from smearing the surface contaminants. Shark Tower! works on metals but because of the abrasive I would not use it on large areas like exhaust manifolds because it has a tendency to scratch ever so slightly on stainless exhausts. If your exhaust manifolds are especially dirty, an initial Shark Tower! Cleaning followed by Waxing Frenzy! cleaner wax will make you smile. On all other stainless, aluminum, and chrome, Shark Tower is absolutely great. This product can also be used on fiberglass to remove stains, scuffs and oxidation!

Waxing Frenzy! One-Step Cleaner Wax:

This crazy cleaning wax is the flagship of the Hammerhead fleet. Like Shark Tower!, it has the engulfing agent that pulls away dirt from the surface. On paint, it goes on easily and comes off clean, leaving an amazing shine. On metals, it will pull away some oxidations but mainly protect like mild metal polishes. On fiberglass, it was really amazing. On an old, worn, lightly-oxidized boat it really brought the surface back to life like nothing I have tried; for a product with no abrasive, when applied by hand it was amazing. On plastics, it kept water running off Lexan and polished up clear vinyl like a champ. Many boat owners may refer to newfangled combinations of carnauba, silicones and polymers as cocktails because it is a mix of unknown contents and quantities (what happens in Singapore stays in Singapore). But some of these “cocktails” can be a delightful surprise. This cleaner wax is the latter, a truly delightful surprise, and it has really been a pleasure to test it on everything from paint to fiberglass to plastics. It is truly an all-in-one wax that does each job like it was made just for that.

Spray Wax:

Finally, if you are really in a Frenzy to get your boat clean and have no time to partake in traditional waxing using the Frenzy Cleaner Wax, Hammerhead has an entirely synthetic spray wax that is among the best I have used for clear coat mineral removal and gloss restoration. I would classify this product as a “thick dry-cleaning spray.” A “spray wax” must dry to a haze and be buffed. This product is more a thicker quick or dry cleaning spray that can be applied in all temperatures and will not dry on the surface. To use it, simply spray on, smear around and flip cloth and wipe off. This method works best to pick up light dirt, clean off fresh bird dung and produce that “just waxed” look. Use with microfiber cloth (DF Concourse works best because it absorbs the spray as you wipe better than synthetic microfiber) to pick up all the filth from the surface of your boat.

These products, when used together, provide a great all-around care package for any boat. There is some value associated with using an entire system. Easy ordering is one. The other is that each product fully complements the other. In addition, each individual product has some amazing attributes that save time and clutter. Space is minimal and this kit will save you space as well as time. The prices are higher than your normal mid-to-high end cleaning products but the concentration and lack of fillers give you a real bang for your buck. One 16 oz. bottle of Waxing Frenzy! will wax a 25-30 foot boat at least twice. Make sure to apply it thin! Overall, this product line is a wonderful departure from the big-name marine product producers, and it has been made with the boat owner in mind (especially those boat owners that can go over 100 MPH). All in all, I think after Hammerhead takes away the tough guy front and you really get to know its products, you’ll realize that even if you are in a “cleaning frenzy” you can still slow down and enjoy the age old pastime of quality waxing. Bravo to Hammerhead for a great all-around package. 

Hammerhead Boatworks, Inc., 1421 Air Rail Avenue, Virginia Beach, VA ,23454, (866) 373-6992 http://hammerheadboatworks.com