Bradley,
As you said the non-skid on most of your boats has been repainted with added nonskid grit for added grip, so you can deal with your problem a few ways. First, get a big "Cleanie Stick" and use it as a deterrent method for those that get lax in your boat shoe policy. Second, on most boats you can get a majority of stains out with a rubbing compound. If you read my article
http://www.cleaniedini.com/Powerboat_2004.htm#August Which could possibly shed some light on the on the topic. The only thing you need to worry about when using a rubbing compound to get nonskid stains out is that the compound doesn't leave unsightly residue in the nonskid. This can be avoided by using similar color compound. AKA, white 3M Perfect-IT III Extra Cutting Compound on a white non-skid. Hope this helps.

DINI

Wes writes:

Constantine, Thank you very much for your quick reply.

It almost sounds like what Driven to Perfection is calling a polish is really a wax as they claim it has no abrasives and, according to the company President, they don’t recommend a protective wax treatment after applying their polish. By definition, can a polish not have abrasives and still remove light oxidation and surface contaminates? And can a polish have the same protective qualities of a wax, therefore eliminating the need for a separate wax application?

Dini writes:
There is a fine line between what some call a polish and others call a protectant. I have made a line in the sand in which many may not agree with. I say that a polish is a light abrasive, a compound is a harsh abrasive and a protectant is something that inhibits oxidation. With a polish I also include mild chemical cleaners that do the same work as a mild abrasive but are not actually containing an aluminum oxide abrasive that will mechanically remove oxidation, instead many chemical cleaners will do the same job of cleaning the surface of oxidation and surface contaminants but with a chemical type cleaner. Other people do not feel like calling things the same as me and frankly I think it adds to the confusion in the industry, that may be part of the overall plan also to get you to purchase more products from them. Yes, a polish can contain products that I consider protectants like carnauba wax and polymer protectants as well as these cleaners we have spoke about. You may also see products like this called cleaner wax, or cleaner protectant. 3M combines an compound and a wax together to make a restorer wax for oxidized fiberglass. I have spoken with the owner of Driven and upon my return from Antarctica I will be doing a comprehensive test of his products. Many times the word polish is thrown around quite liberally. Meguiar's considers a polish something with a light abrasive that also as conditioning agents to "feed" the surface in which you are polishing. 3M made a great Liquid Polish but took it off the market and replaced it with a Hand Glaze and Machine Glaze. I am sorry that I don't have more information online about this and now that I understand it is an area of question I will be sure to update the site as soon as I am able.

Wes:
You recommended the 3M Ultra Performance Paste Wax and 3M Hand Glaze which I believe Howard Boats uses. Does 3M make an equivalent liquid wax to their paste wax, or does the additional effort of hand-applying paste wax result in such a noticeably superior appearance as to negate the relative ease of` hand-applying liquid wax? I’m assuming applying the 3M Hand Glaze with a random orbital polisher is preferred over applying the polish by hand.

Dini:
3M's UPPW is great, they make a liquid wax that holds many of the same properties but the ease of application is not the same, plus it really doesn't smell good and has a tendency to look splotchy if used on paint. I would suggest Collinite #925 Fiberglass Boat Wax because it is just a great product and represents the older tried and true technology. It is easy to apply, smells nice, and produces a great shine on new or like new gel-coat. Another great liquid wax is made by Hammerhead Boat Works called Waxing Frenzy! This product contains a chemical agent that cleans the surface of any previous wax that has been applied as well as light oxidation and again is a great new product on the market with the latest polymer type protectants and such. As far as ease of application of a past compared to liquid it really depends, it truly isn't that much more elbow grease with the 3M UPPW over most liquid waxes. On a new boat you will not have any problem. On older oxidized boats you will notice that almost all wax is impossible to remove because the wax will be absorbed into the oxidation and you will continue to see splotchy areas where the wax was as well as colors if the wax was colored. On your new boat you will notice most things will not do this and you can use almost any product including automotive waxes with little problem. Meguiar's has made a Marine Spray Wax that will help you keep parts of your boat waxed that get a lot of abuse. It sprays on and all you do is smear it around with one side of a rag then wipe it off with the other. It is very quick and easy and will afford you protection from stains and such on new fiberglass. As far as a random orbital polisher goes there are a number that are on the market but only a few that are worth spending your money on. The Porter Cable as well as the Cyclo are both exceptional machines. For your boat I don't think you would even need one until it starts getting older and you need to use light compounds. Right now you want to avoid any compounds that may scratch your gel-coat because you are giving dirt and filth a place to cling onto as well as making the surface look bad when the sun reflects on it, you know swirl marks.

Wes:
Lastly, do you have any recommendations for protecting and preserving my anodized aluminum hardware? No salt water use, but the Colorado River water is very hard and waterspots are terrible.

Dini:
In the salt water I have always used Woody Wax on anodized aluminum. In fresh water I would suspect that it would do even better. Woody Wax is amazing stuff that truly is good for anything. I use it in all my automotive fuse boxes because it keeps moisture out as well as lubricates electrical connections. I have waxes entire boats with woody wax as well as being one of two waxes designed for use on nonskid. It can be used on almost any metal with great results. Because the anodized aluminum gets really beat up in the salt Woody suggests using brass wool (like steel wool) to remove the mineral deposits. This also may be necessary with the minerals you deal with. May want to make up a spray bottle of vinegar and water to help break down the minerals. Again that Boat Wax Plus is designed mainly for boats in fresh water use on the Colorado River because of the problem that came about because of the hard water spots so before mixing up your own brew of vinegar it may prove cost effective to try out their spray that not only breaks down minerals but also protects with what they call a Co-Polymer. Good luck with everything and hope to hear how things go!

Thanks for all of your help and have a fabulous time in Antarctica- the adventure of a lifetime!

Wes